Hiking around the boardwalks and trails of Cape Spear is always beautiful and for me spiritual; hiking it with one of my grandchildren is pure magic.
“Walking gives freedom. When you walk you can determine your own tempo. You can choose your own course. You can think whatever you want.” Nina Kuscik
Normally, I would agree with this quote but in this case, my four year old grandson chose the tempo and the course, and my thinking was limited to ….stay away from the cliffs, do not lose sight of him, do not run, do not spoil his day with too many warnings……….
Wait for me!
On my previous visits to Cape Spear, I had never explored this!
Surely with this workout, he will sleep tonight!
I truly do not understand people who abuse our earth with excess garbage, it will only sustain us for so long. Awesome is everywhere, let’s preserve it.
Photos by L. Fudge
Cape Spear, Newfoundland …..add it to your bucket list!
“Walk as if you are kissing the earth with your feet. No one saves us but ourselves. No one can and no one may. We ourselves must walk the path.” Buddha
On March 18, 1953, a gigantic B36 aircraft on a secret reconnaissance mission crashed on a hillside near Burgoyne’s Cove, Newfoundland. All 23 crew members were killed. The plane left the Canary Islands headed for Maine, but was forced off course by weather conditions and hit the hillside just north of Burgoyne’s Cove. An excellent source of information is http://www.hiddennewfoundland.ca , under the Vehicles and Vessels tab click Burgoynes Cove B36 crash.
My sister put this trail on my radar about two years ago, and finally, with my husband joining us, we did the trek. Because route 320A, off the Bonavista Highway to George’s Brook, was under construction, we took Marine Drive in Clarenville, through Shoal Harbour and continued on this route until we eventually arrived at George’s Brook and then turned down to Burgoyne’s Cove. There we found the sign which indicated the Slate Quarry and took this dirt road for approximately 4.5 km until we reached the trail head. Because we were in our camper van, we actually drove 2.5 km and walked the remaining 2 km. This was a good decision and we enjoyed the morning walk.
The sign for the actual trail could very easily be missed.
The sign says 1/2 hour, most posts on the trail say 40 minutes and I would agree. The trail is not long (1 km) or overly arduous, but it is a steady climb uphill and the path is covered with intertwining tree roots. I would rate it moderate but it may be difficult for the inexperienced hiker.
Along the trail.
Continuing uphill, we pause and explore. We hiked the trail in the morning and there was a slight breeze…..perfect hiking conditions.
Moments of beauty.
Ferns are always a welcoming sight for me.
…….and then we see the first piece, not so bad.
We continue to walk and there is debris everywhere, far flung and in the oddest places….and the sadness comes. How horrific. How sad. We are all subdued and can not stop looking and searching and learning.
Sixty-four years later and their story is told by the aircraft pieces scattered all over the hillside.
Hiking further up the hill to view the memorial.
Views from the top are spectacular…..Smith Sound……
One blade of one of the airplane’s propellers is used for their monument… how fitting. We read the names of the 23 people aboard and pause to reflect.
We can only hope.
We can walk between two places and in so doing establish a link between them into a warmth of contact, like introducing two friends. Thomas A. Clark
Maybe by hiking here, we connect the past with the present.
This plane was enormous and in reading the information it says the men would ride on a trolley to get from the tail to the front. It had ten engines and now, for sixty-four years, it all lies scattered on the hillside near Burgoyne’s Cove. The bodies were eventually air lifted out to the naval base and then flown back to the US.
We return to Quarry Road subdued, but thankful too that we had completed the hike and learned more about the Burgoyne’s Cove crash of 1953.
An experience is an arch to build upon. Henry Burton
To reach St. Brendan’s you must drive to Burnside ( approximately 8 km. north of Eastport) and take a ferry. The trip takes 1 hour and is quite scenic as the bay is dotted with islands, shoals and, at this time of the year, fishing boats.
…….but don’t pay any attention to this official schedule…oh no, no, no
This is the ‘real’ schedule, which was hidden behind a parked truck when we first arrived!
The ferry dock was quite busy with boats unloading caplin. I assume they were being taken to the plant in Happy Adventure.
Thankfully, with help from someone on the wharf, we were shown the right schedule:) and we were off on another adventure.
Where exactly are we going? Checking the map.
Never give up listening to the sounds of birds. John James Audobon
We have arrived. The population of St. Brendan’s is 140 with 9 being school students. I had assumed that St. Brendan’s was just one community, but was surprised to find that it is comprised of several little coves. Some have four or five houses.
A beautiful day in St. Brendan’s
Let us resist the tendency to take the shallow route, and instead pursue depth in our lives. From the book entitled Gratitude
Oh to know its history.
There is something to be said for walking: it is the mode of human locomotion by which man proceeds on his own two feet, upright, erect, as man should be, not squatting on his rear haunches like a frog. Edward Abbey
The Three R’s…..ruins, rope & raspberries
I love the scent of blackberry bushes…..
An easy, scenic hike.
The Beacon. We were told that a lighthouse used to be on this spot years ago.
In the distance, across from the lighthouse, is Braggs Island. Greenspond is out there somewhere:)
….and back we go.
Looking, singing, resting, breathing, are all complementary to walking. Thomas A. Clark
We went in search of Lomond Campground because we had camped there many years ago when our girls were younger. We were mistakenly directed to Lomond River Lodge and, while I am sure this is a nice camping spot, I knew this wasn’t what I was looking for.
We decided to take Route 431 from Wiltondale and head down towards Woody Point. About 18 km down we saw the sign Lomond Campground and the next two days were idyllic. Lomond Campground 1 877 737 3783.
This campground has 29 unserviced sites, but there is water, showers, washrooms and kitchens that are all lovely. It is suitable for smaller campers, Camper Vans, tents, truck campers but not the larger monster (sorry, didn’t mean to write monster:) ) rigs that I see people driving/towing.
We met many people from outside of Newfoundland who were staying here in tents, or in CVs similar to ours.
One family was here from Quebec with four little boys, ‘like steps of the stairs’ and were staying in two tents. The father said, “we try for girl” “now no more, we have enough!” :):)
Golden hours of vision come to us in this present life when we are at our best. Dole
Lomond was actually a community back in the mid 1900s, and today, not only do we see glorious wildflowers, but many of the cultivated flowers from the old gardens…….a feast of colour.
All of this and a fellow camper playing his harmonica! Heaven was definitely brought down to earth here in Lomond.
We usually eat inside our CV, but on such a gorgeous evening that was unthinkable.
Bog Candle/Scent Bottle Orchid
Up from the beach, and just behind the change station area, you will find a trail that leads to Paynes Cove and the abandoned settlement of Stanleyville.
Heading for Stanleyville
Heading for Stanleyville
……………….off we went.
This is an easy trail, although there are some steps, and is only 4 km return.
Let distractions melt away like clouds disappearing in the sky. Milarepa
We met a couple from Nova Scotia and they have been coming here to Norris Point every summer for the past seven years….smart people!
Roses & Clouds
Norris Point & area, Gros Morne National Park
We were overlooking Norris Point and were totally captivated by this scene, we are above the clouds.:)
Norris Point and Rocky Harbour are scenic, interesting and inspiring. To see and feel most of Newfoundland, I believe you must walk, stop, listen and absorb.
Norris Point is also home to the Bonne Bay Marine Station and The Cat Stop Pub and Grub (check out their Facebook pages), these are two of my favourite places, there are others to see and explore. For more on this area please read my blog of April 6, 2016.
….and then it was on to Green Point, an ecological wonder (see previous blog).
Sticks & Stones
These plants were growing on the beach at Green Point, the underside of the Silverweed’s leaves are white and the Lungwort was stunning in its arrangement amongst the rocks.
I feel the earth, the wind, the trees. I feel its spirit. It puts me in the moment. G. H. Jennings
After hiking and camping in Keels, we went to Bonavista to visit John. John lives near Cape Bonavista lighthouse and we found him while hiking the Cape Shore Trail. This is an easy trail (3.5km) with great ocean views.
Photo C. Fudge
Photo C. Fudge
Starry False Solomon’s Seal
We found these while hiking this trail and, while they are apparently common along coastal shores and headlands in Newfoundland, this was a first for me. I find it so interesting researching the names of wildflowers and my books and the Wildflower Society of Newfoundland are great resources.
Islands in the Stream……for Kenny & Dolly
I saw this while walking the Old Day’s Pond Boardwalk (1km) and it brought the song to mind.
……….Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. John Muir
Bluebells, Irises and a lone gull.
We spent a couple of hours watching gulls and it is only now that I can identify a Herring Gull and a Ring billed Gull. I will focus on identifying more later. We also saw Guillemots, Pintail Ducks and Cormorants but because my husband had left his camera at home, ( we only had our cell phones) we have no pictures!
When human beings lose their connection to nature, to heaven and earth, then they do not know how to nurture their environment or how to rule their world—which is saying the same thing. Human beings destroy their ecology at the same time they destroy one another. From that perspective, healing our society goes hand in hand with healing our personal, elemental connection with the phenomenal world. The Sacred Path of the Warrior by Chogyam Trungpa
Please check these links for some great shops in Bonavista.
For the woman who said ” Why would you want to go to Keels?” The answer was:
I first heard of it as a child
Segments of the movie Maudie were filmed here
I love to go where I have never been
Now that I’ve been there, the answer is:
because of the Wild Irises
because of the Bluebells
because of the Pitcher Plants and so many other wild flowers
because of Selby Mesh, owner of the store where parts of the movie ” Maudie” were filmed
because of the hiking
the people, both local and those from the US who have summer homes here
Clayton’s Chip Van
Our camera was left at home and we had to use our cell phones for pictures, but that’s a tale best left untold.
Maudie was filmed in several places in Newfoundland and is one of my favourite movies. The store used in several scenes belongs to Selby Mesh and was owned by his father before him. It was so interesting to talk with him about Keels, the store and the filming of Maudie. Many of the props used in the movie were left in the store and the store itself went through a makeover on the inside. Selby is hoping to open a tea room in his store and has built a beautiful deck overlooking the ocean. To date one of the government departments (Environment ?) has refused to issue the permit. He needs a solution for his sewage disposal and has a few options, but the one which has govermental approval is too expensive.
I hope he succeeds.
Props from the movie……..not sure if the Georgie Girl Lingerie box is because it contains lingerie that is for sale.
Mesh’s Store, Keels
………oh yes, even the devil has been here!
Movement is a medicine for creating change in a person’s physical, emotional, and mental status. Carol Welch
We were caught in the rain on our way back from this hike.
The next day we decided to do another hike, Skiddie Hill…..it is quite the climb.
There are things we will never see, unless we walk to them. Thomas A. Clark
The privilege of a lifetime is to become who you truly are. C. G. Jung
…and we made it to the top, with Keels far below. What a beautiful, sunny, windy day.
If the Devil’s Footprints are here, maybe this is Shrek’s Stream.
Abandoned Rock Quarry
A very kind lady lent us her hose so we could fill our water tank in our camper van….I had never seen a pink water hose.:)
After this, the winter of my discontent, I have found myself again, I am steady.
There are walks on which I lose myself, walks which return me to myself again.